Showing posts with label Slides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Slides. Show all posts

Friday, March 16, 2012

Six Rivers Source to Sea Expedition--Van Duzen River: Goat Rock



Returning to the very same spot we took off the Van Duzen two weeks before was an exciting feeling.  We were stoked to have accomplished the Bloody Run and equally stoked to be getting on the Goat Rock section at a great level on a beautiful sunny day.  Flows were right about 1200 cfs on the gauge at Bridgeville as we drove through the unadulterated redwood groves that dominate the Highway 36.  Since we were along the Highway 36, perhaps the most hitchhiker-friendly road I know of, we shared a ride knowing shuttle would be no concern.  Along the way we spoke of how the long-range weather forecast was changing and beginning to show signs of storm activity.  This was equally exciting to us as our plight to paddle all Six Rivers of the National Forest seemed in jeopardy due to a lack of sufficient snowpack and water in general.  We put on at the confluence of Little Larabee Creek, where an easy trail leads to the river.  Not before we took a look at Goat Rock Falls from high above though.  Here is the overlook view of the entrance crux and the Pinch below.  



 For kayakers, even locals (with the exception of one) Goat Rock isn’t even on the map.  Mostly paddlers come to the Duzen for the classic Grizzly creek section downstream and at high water will occasionally drive up to Goat Rock Falls to stare in awe at the amazing spectacle.  At 20,000 cfs it truly is amazing to look at and there is a perfect trail leading down to an overlooking precipice from the road.  I have paddled on the section once before but circumstantially, when we arrived at the crux we hiked out up the right bank in the dusk.  That was over 10 years ago and after recent forays into the drainage and seeing the drop at reasonable levels I was really excited to get on the run again.  Goat Rock also comes highly and unconditionally recommended by the fabled local boater Silent Ed, who paddles it solo regularly.  Here Paul scouts the crux from above at river level.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost


Paddling downstream the river has a great pace, much better than the flat-water paddle-out from the Bloody Run.  We passed through the zany town of Bridgeville, which has a storied history as of late.  Bridgeville became widely publicized as the first town to ever be sold on E-Bay for a cost of $700,000 in 2002, only to be resold again in 2006 for $1.25 to a self-made 25-year-old millionaire.  The sale included 3 cows, 8 houses and a post office, sounds like a good deal to me.  But the story doesn’t end there; three months after purchasing Bridgeville the new owner tragically committed suicide with a gunshot wound to the chest.  I told the boys about this as we floated past town and directly underneath the highway bridge we came across the first rapid.  The Bridgeville Boof left a good taste in our mouth and we all wish shots were taken (no pun intended).

Downstream from town the Duzen lets up briefly with an extended warm-up before getting down to business Van Duzen style…a blind horizon line with large boulders blocking the view.  We scrambled briefly as I scratched for an eddy at the lip, then peeled out through a narrow slot drop into a boiling hydraulic and around the backside of a monstrous boulder.  I was all good below the drop but unable to communicate that to the crew above and had to wait for a minute before they all came charging through.  We continued downstream through more excellent class III-IV boogie before reaching the Headwall of Goat Rock proper.  


Photo: Paul Gamache

Looking downstream at the runout of the crux and the entrance to the pinch

Photo: Paul Gamache


The entrance drop into Goat Rock is the most critical move and has the biggest hydraulics due to the steep constriction along the massive river left wall.  With our healthy level the hydraulic at the bottom proved to be a stopper, but not a tractor beaming SOB.  This was good because there is only a very short break before the next drop.  In fact, the entire Goat Rock section is really only a ½ mile long rapid with 4 critical moves, and it can be easily broken up by catching large eddies.  Because of this Goat Rock is not recommended above levels of 1,500 cfs at Bridgeville.  This is also not a great run for beginning creekers at the higher end of the runnable flow range.  I would recommend starting between 800-1,000 cfs to familiarize yourself with all the moves and the hazards before pushing the level up.  Portaging the main drop is difficult and only small eddies exist above 1,000 cfs.  Goat Rock is a solid class V considering the many inconspicuous consequences.  

The second crux just downstream is the Pinch, where the river is funneled through a backed up ledge hole that feeds into a slot.  The drop is straightforward but I’d hate to be getting surfed in that hole so keep your nose up!  Looking upstream from Goldenbeard at the pinch.



Photo: Paul Gamache
 
The outflow from the pinch pushes towards river left where a hideous sieved out rock pile lurks.  The Goldenbeard Boof is on the right and where you want to be, really.  Looking downstream across the lip of the boof at the hideous rock pile in the background.

Photo: Paul Gamache
The third major move is Goldenbeard, a money boof drop where the line is hard right, almost against the bank.  As with all drops on the Van Duzen you should inspect them carefully and regularly depending on the flow levels…many unknown hazards exist and the turbid brown water can hide rocks mere inches beneath the surface.  Boof the crap out of this one!  Looking back upstream at Goat Rock and the Goldenbeard boof.

Photo: Paul Gamache
Birds eye view of Goldenbeard from the overlook.


The Runout from Goldenbeard
Photo: Paul Gamache
Goldenbeard feeds directly into a class III run out before the final drop of the section, The Deathtrap boof.  An appealing and straightforward boof line exists down the right channel, however a sneaky and extremely dangerous crack in the rock is just to the right of the line.  Inspect it carefully, but enjoy another high quality boof the Van Duzen has to offer.  

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

If you go too far right for the boof a dangerous siphon could potentially do bad things.  Boof 4 safety like Wes Shrek is doing below in the only kayaking picture we have from the day.  

Photo: Paul Gamache

It was a beautiful day and we ran this boof a couple of times for good measure.  

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Will, Paul and Me downstream of the Siphon, fired up on the quality boofs we'd paddled.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Downstream the river mellows into a class III paddle out most of the way to Golden Gate Bridge, the take-out.   Be courteous of the friendly locals here as it is their neighborhood.  As mentioned, we hitchhiked our shuttle because Highway 36 is where its at!  Friendly locals, good weather, amazing scenery and great boofs less than an hour from home…how come this was my 1st time?

Sunday, June 6, 2010

An Ode to Bridge Creek!

Well, I might as well share the pics I've got from my most photographed, and favorite creek run!
Especially considering that this summer it will probably be running into July, its latest season in years!

Disclaimer: Its initial classic reputation became tarnished as numerous epic mis-adventuresome stories began to emerge.  However, if you consider the 440 fpm gradient average (300, 475, 525), epic hike-in, beautiful wilderness, amazing bedrock, supreme solitude, and 10 miles of classic Wooley; the initial classic reputation must linger on!  Here's the Solution: take this run seriously, get an early start, bring break-down paddles and food make sure you can navigate off-trail, and don't dilly-dally unless you brought gear for a 2-day (Highly Recommended and pleasurable!).  The hike-in is the most daunting task!

After 13 trips down Bridge, a couple planned overnighters, and a hike out down Wooley in the dark, this is my favorite creek.  It is one of the best waterfall training runs around, with no single drop greater than 20'.  This is where I learned to plug-boof waterfalls.  If your cup of tea is 20' plus, heed the words of my friend Dave Norell, who stated "none of the falls were big enough!"  Time to move to Hood River.

Damon Goodman and Seth Naman in the midst of the "Mank Mile"

Plan on portaging two drops in the Mank Mile, the slippery log portage comes 1/4 mile down from put-in after the creek flows through a meadow and turns left.  It is a mank cascade, runnable without wood.  Leif's Purple Toe is a 30' boxed in drop that dished out Mulleticious consequences in 2007.  This comes after a calm pool and is portaged right though we've been portaging over a log spanning the drop.  Purple Toe Gorge is changing rapidly, any year I expect it will be different.  Once past this drop, my stoke level starts to climb.

Damon Goodman in "First Taste"

Damon Goodman exits "First Taste"

Orion Meredith plops the "Bobsled Run"; a sweet sliding entrance kicks off the First Waterfall

Immediately below Bobsled Run lies Medicine Falls.  This drop is best boofed with right to left momentum.  I've pitoned this at low flows, as an underwater shelf juts out from the right.  At higher flows this hydraulic is powerful and safety is extremely difficult to set!

Mike Lee drops Medicine Falls

This marks the beginning of a high quality stretch of bedrock drops and low angle slides.  After a tight right turn and increase of gradient you approach the Rooster and Fucker Rock.

Plugging The Rooster: Photo Curt Welsh

Mike Lee portaging "Fucker Rock" immediately downstream from the Rooster

Story Time: Fucker Rock
This drop has changed remarkably on a near-annual basis.  We used to run a boof onto a rock that bounced you very near the left wall.  Now we portage this mandatory-hit manker.  One fine day (2004) I was paddling with my friend Gabe Forsythe.  His line through F-Rock was hideous--he flipped as he was coming off it.  When he tried to brace, his paddle stuck into the drop, resulting in him falling straight through and breaking it.  Neither of us had a spare paddle, I had brought my NRS handpaddles instead.  We were approx. halfway down Bridge, with most of the big drops ahead.  
Gabe stood up to the plate--hand paddling the rest of Bridge creek, mostly on verbal directions.  He portaged Toilet-Bowl and the Penalty Box, but ran everything else; often styling moves with the dynamic hand-plant.  When we reached Wooley I asked if he would like to trade-off the paddle.  "Nope", Gabe said and continued to Hand Paddle the 10 miles of Wooley also.  Remarkable Bridge Creek Achievement! 

Miguel hits the "Kicker Slide"

Miguel speeds through "Amnesia"

Curt Welsh takes the "Magic Carpet Ride"

Magic Carpet marks the one-mile mark to Wooley Creek.  It is the most picturesqe drop on the run and forms severe hydraulics as the flows increase.  You have officially descended into Poison Oak territory.  Continuous manky boulder gardens continue downstream from here and it is a very good place to be on your toes.  The next major horizon line is the Teacups, scout left before blundering into them.

Flowdaddy boofs the first teacup with right angle.

Damon Goodman backlit in "The Teacups"

The Teacups is a legitimate 3 part rapid, containing a very tricky and congested entrance boulder garden.  This drop is so legitimate in fact, that at a flow of 5.5' a crew of 6 paddlers had 4 simultaneous swimmers here, one in each drop at the same time.  

Silent Ed lines up "The Toiletbowl"

The Toilet Bowl is definitely the stoutest drop on the run.  The horizon line is hidden behind a large boulder, and comes during your typical busy-water boulder garden.  Be on your toes to scout right and/or portage this one.  Maintaining slight left momentum and launching a boof can help you to avoid this amazingly unique and sticky hydraulic.  On a previous run I was surfed in this hole, scrambling to stay out of the way of my buddy Andrew Bell, who came off the drop and gave me a funny look as he cleaned the line.  I was swirling in the bowl while he eddied out and came to feed me a rope.  I then flipped and decided I would rather try to paddle out myself.  After surfing the hole across the boil I made it out.  Moral: if you're paddling in a 2-pack, consider setting safety for your friend so you don't both wind up in the bowl.

Another time I was in the toilet bowl, my friend Seth Ricker fed me a rope properly...he pulled it while hunched down to maintain a low-center-of-gravity-pull.  This kept me from flipping, though he needed a pull from our buddy Matt Fayhee to prevent him from sliding across smoothly polished slippery bedrock.  This drop can be portaged rather easily on the right, but be careful as I've seen several paddlers walk right through the enormous poison oak bush here.

Your next scout is the Pearl Necklace, which comes shortly downstream.  This is an amazing crack to slide drop, I used to walk it, but now its my favorite.  People who walk it can seal-launch into the slide, but I've seen at least 4 different folks slide into this drop while portaging the mossy slab.

Seth Naman squirts through the "Pearl Necklace"


Flowdaddy


Pearl Necklace is a slippery portage. Clint learns the hard way.
Great shot of typical Bridge water

Downstream of the Pearl Necklace, rapids continue to the Penalty Box, recognizable by a cliffed out right wall and a left-hand bend.  This is the worst hydraulic on the run, scout, set safety and/or portage on the left.  The portage requires teamwork and delicate climbing to avoid falling into the drop.  Poison oak is abundant here.  

Penalty Box--Set safety and Boof the Hell out of it!
Photo: Mike Lee

On our first trip down bridge in 2000 (before we found the put-in trail), Guillo Torres was giving our crew of 8 verbals as we paddled in dusk.  We were racing to reach Wooley before dark.  In the eddy above I was told to go left and watched Ligare paddle into the darkness.  Upon entering the slide though, I could see the creek fell into the left wall and quickly stuck my boof to the right.  One after one, our friends came off the drop, with large smacks to the wall echoing in the canyon.  We couldn't see 'em but we could hear 'em.  It is amazingly fortunate that we didn't have any swims that day.  The Penalty Box actually becomes more sticky at lower flows due to the bowled out hydraulic and bedrock-pinch exit. 

Two more rapids remain, a mini-gorge on a corner and Bridge Creek Falls--The Grand Finale.  

Mike Lee drops into Bridge Creek Falls
  

Matt "Flowdaddy" Flofo drops Bridge Creek Falls

I can't think of a prettier creek anywhere.  You've now descended from fir and cedar to oak and pine.

Camping at The Wooley Cabin

My new favorite logistics are to plan a 2-day and camp upon arrival at Wooley Creek.  This is especially a good method if you haven't heard wood reports yet, or haven't done the run before.  The cabin is a 1/4 mile hike up (left bank) Wooley from Bridge Creek Falls.  This will allow you plenty of time to scout, set safety and rest before you test your mettle against Wooley.  

Flows: between 4 and 4.75' on Salmon @ Somes Bar for first timers.  This is a class V run.  Above 5.5' it can produce other-worldly hydraulics to Boof or Die! (Even though the Knapps paddled it over 7' once)