Eel River Van Arsdale to Dos Rios--Six Rivers Source to Sea Expedition

The V-Hole on Vimeo

Explore Six Rivers

 In order to keep our momentum and take advantage of another wet storm the Explore Six Rivers Team decided to head south and catch a spill from Van Arsdale Reservior.  For those of you unfamiliar with the Upper Eel River, check out The Friends of the Eel River Website.  They also have a great link with info about the Potter Valley Project and its ecological effects, forming a total barrier for imperiled Salmon populations that historically spawned in the Tributaries above Lake Pillsbury.

Lichen covered Oak Trees surrounding Lake Pillsbury

Van Arsdale Reservior is created by Cape Horn Dam and is the second of two dams on the Eel.  The first is Scott Dam, forming Lake Pillsury.  Both of these dams are a part of the Potter Valley Project, owned and operated by PG+E which is the second largest water diversion we will encounter on our Six Rivers Expedition behind the Trinity River.  I don't think they produce power at Lake Pillsbury and it functions primarily as a water storage for diversions to the Russian River watershed via. the 

Potter Valley Project.  

Cape Horn Dam and Van Arsdale Reservior 

Because of the "need" to keep Lake Pillsbury full, and because of the unusually dry winter, this was only the third time this winter that a runnable flow level has passed Van Arsdale.  The last time we had checked the Eel River at Van Arsdale Gauge at put-in at 4 in the morning the river was about 1,500 cfs, although an extremely wet storm had just dropped up to 3" in some of the surrounding hills and the river quickly began to grow in volume.  By the time we arrived the flow was steadily increasing and it felt like way more than 1,500.  Turns out it was more like 3,000 cfs.

Because of the water diversions, during the summer only 5 cfs is passed down the Eel River beyond Van Arsdale.  The result is water too warm for native juvenile Salmon.  The unnaturally low flow has also resulted in many willows and alder trees growing into the riverbed.  To be honest, however, at our flow there were a couple of bad spots in the first couple miles downstream but then it cleaned up quite nicely.

 I knew this would be a factor that could potentially hamper our downstream progress--we were hoping to paddle 37 miles all the way to Dos Rios at the Middle Fork Confluence.  As such we intended to leave town early meeting up at 5:00 am to accomplish our goal.  5:00 came and I was stoked to see Victoria and Matt all bright and shiny, Paul arrived and we began gathering our equipment.  Our buddy Wes, who is always down to boat and usually on it, was nowhere to be seen.  Upon calling we discovered he was still in bed.  No problem, we all made another round of coffee and hung out watching Paul's helmet cam footy from the Milk Drop on the Lower Mad River.  Before we knew it Wes arrived with Will in tow and we were loaded and on the way.  Victoria and Wes drove for what was guaranteed to be a long shuttle and a long day.  We met up at a gas station in south Eureka for Aztec Breakfast burritos, and Matt suddenly realized he had forgotten his drysuit and had to return to Arcata for it.  No problems, such has been the way of the six rivers expedition thus far...that's why we meet at 5, right?

On our shuttle drive down to Dos Rios and back, we passed another group of floaters!  Honking our horn and waving we were stoked to see the first group of paddlers on the river since we had started out the Six Rivers Expedition.  After a beautiful, albeit long shuttle drive through Willits, up highway 20 and then through Potter Valley and over the pass to Van Arsdale we arrived at a nice and easy put-in below the almost-runnable dam.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Then we were off kayaking through the willow jungles of the Eel, the water was a silty blue and the clouds were parting to make for a beautiful day.  We charged downstream and found that the addition of tributaries caused the riverbed to clean up more quickly than we anticipated.  Before we knew it we were past the willowy stuff and enjoying some quality whitewater in a roadless canyon.

Photo: Paul Gamache

The geology was interesting sandstone bedrock mixed with some peridotite looking boulders and a nice forest lined the banks dominated by oak and grey pine.  A couple of large creeks came in from the right bank, adding to our level.  I was looking forward to the Tomki Creek confluence as I have never paddled it and figured it would contribute significantly to the flow.  Tomki added perhaps another 500 cfs and the recession lines on the sandy beaches downstream indicated that we were riding at perhaps the peak of the flow spike.  Downstream the Eel continued through a nice canyon with occasional class II and III rapids.

Eventually we arrived at one such rapid with a good boof that I crashed through.  The hole seemed a little sticky and I windmilled a few strokes to get through it.  Looking upstream I got to see Paul launch into it and get stuck, clocking a solid 25 second ride or more before he freed himself from the hole.  We were all laughing at the thought of Paul swimming in a class II.  Paul's Hole marked the beginning of an awesome section of continuous class II-III that continued for almost a mile.

Making good time with the additional flow we played our way downstream with many great features and soon arrived at the beginning of the Hearst Valley.  After some brief Wiki-research, Hearst is named after the senator George Hearst, and doesn't seem to have any connection to the Hearst section of the McCloud River, though I could be wrong.  This was also formerly known as Travelers Home, and I can see why.  We were quickly floating through one of the most beautiful valley scenes I have witnessed complete with snowy mountain scenery courtesy of Sanhedrin Mountain.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Before long we were passing the bridge and entering the 18 mile Hearst section of the Eel.  I was excited to paddle this section with high hopes for a potential addition to my guidebook-in-progress.    We passed a house at the downstream end of Hearst with a whitewater kayak outside and were stoked it is a rarity in these parts.  At this point we had already covered 12 miles but still had another 25 to go. 

Photo: Paul Gamache

 No worries, though, the flows at Dos Rios were 12,000 and rising the last time we had checked so we figured our pace would continue to increase.  The Hearst section started with some fun drops and several playspots and our high spirited group continued to have a great time.  Suddenly the geology shifted to some very interesting bedrock that formed strange spires that seemed to erupt through the murky water.  It is some of the most unique and stunning scenery through which I have ever paddled and combined with the unforeseen sunny day (it was forecasted for rain and snow) the stoke level was high.

  

We passed one final property and mountainous view as we had quickly arrived to the notorious "Ramsing Corner" Rapid.  I told the crew the story about the crazy notorious landowner, Mr. Ramsing who used to yell at, and threaten to shoot, floaters who attempted to scout the rapid on his prop-er-tie along the right bank.  Right away we were giggling and decided to take a break in the sun for lunch.

The river makes a 180-degree bend around Ramsing Corner

Photo: Paul Gamache

The Six Rivers Posse, on the rocks

Photo: Paul Gamache

Its amazing all of the places this mission has taken us so far and I have no regrets for paddling any of the "flatwater" sections of the northcoast that have escaped my attention to date.  We continued downstream through an awesome section of river that constricted through monstrous boulders in an awesome class II stretch reminiscent of my childhood runs down 'Swirly Canyon' on the South Fork of the Payette River.  This was some quality river and the whole crew was in awe.

  The river was quite large and we had covered many miles at this point, knowing that the Outlet Creek confluence must be getting close.  

The abundance of play spots continued, here Paul shows you how they used to do it before cellphones.

Eventually the pace slackened somewhat and we found ourselves paddling mellow water, though some more large tributaries continued to add flow and excellent play features appeared in nearly every class II rapid.  We took another quick break and before we knew it the river was speeding up again.

Victoria with her signature smile.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Time on the Water

Photo: Paul Gamache

Then we arrived at The V-Hole, an excellent training boof that I launched through, telling the crew it was good to go...because it is.  All the boys, including myself, had to paddle hard to escape the backwash after we boofed it, because it was a sticky hole.  Then we waited for a minute because Victoria happened to be in the back of the crew for once.  We gave her the boof signal and she approached it full steam ahead.  This was really funny because merely miles upstream Victoria was quoted asking "what's the difference between a wave and a hole".  Sorry V, I guess sometimes you learn the hard way (with Paul G and his helmet cam directly next to you)

Then we came around the corner to see the Highway 162 bridge, and the aforementioned crew of paddlers taking out, it was our first real paddler sighting yet.  They turned out to be the folks with the kayak we saw, who live in Hearst and paddle the section with regularity.  After parting ways we paddled downstream to the confluence with Outlet Creek.

Photo: Paul Gamache

 Clarification, Outlet Creek drains Willits...the Outlet Creek Run is actually on the Main Eel, starting at the confluence with Outlet Creek and continuing to the Middle Fork Eel confluence.  Outlet Creek can also be paddled but is referred to as "Outlet Creek Proper".  Confused yet?  Don't blame me it's the old-schoolers fault, but if you live in Willits and say lets go paddle "Outlet tomorrow", the chances are you're referring to the Main Eel below the Outlet Creek confluence.  Reason Why?  Its awesome!

Photo: Paul Gamache

I tried to get some friends of mine to help with our shuttle attempting to bait them with "you can paddle laps of the Outlet Creek run while we do our 'mission' thing".  I kinda felt that guilt that you always feel when you ask a friend to help you with shuttle "but you could join us for your final lap", I said.  Several friends I talked to had never done this stretch and seemed generally uninterested.  I wonder what forces of the earth have caused the Eel to get such an overlooked and undesirable reputation and general disinterest.  Our crew, however, looked forward to this section as the cherry on top of our long day.  The first rapid down from the bridge continued into the sunshine and was one big = er.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Will and I, both having paddling roots in Idaho, felt right at home.  I may as well have been in Chair Creek Rapid on the Main Salmon River at 13,000 Cfs.  Then, what do you know it, there were some awesome playwaves too!

Photo: Paul Gamache

And some more great rapids led us to the dramatic Middle Fork Eel confluence where the river becomes immense.  At our triumphant take-out downstream we had checked off another 38 miles of the Eel.  While doing our shuttle a friendly local welcomed us into his home by the fire and we felt truly gifted to have experienced such a wonderful day of paddling on a river none of us had paddled or had a good idea of what to expect.  The whole run was great, the Hearst section was awesome and the Outlet Creek Run was "the best play run I've paddled in the Northcoast" --Will Parham.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Van Duzen River -- Forks to Dinsmore

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Upper Van Duzen

This was a huge day for us involved in the Six Rivers Source to Sea Expedition, as we would be completing our final leg of the Van Duzen, and checking off the first of the six rivers on our agenda!  Our plan was to paddle the 25 miles from the confluence of the East and West Forks of the Van Duzen River near Hettenshaw valley, due north through a canyon and into the valley before passing Dinsmore and taking out at the Highway 36 bridge where our mission began.  

Photo: Wes Schrecongost

Water levels were dropping out slightly from the previous storm and it was supposed to get cold and snow so we feared things were going to be low.  Before heading out in the morning I checked the Mad River Gauge above Ruth Reservior, which was flowing at a reasonable level of 600 cfs and instantly felt great about our day's plan.  Then the crew arrived and we loaded up in a manner like we were getting used to paddling or something.  The drive to Dinsmore was also surprisingly fast and a reminder that it really is close to home.  This is a really great section of river that hardly gets paddled but with the easy access, low elevation, and fun rapids it makes for an excellent cold-wintertime option.  I owe Silent Ed full credit for turning me onto this run, here's to Local Paddlers everywhere for the reliable information they contain!

It was a foggy, damp morning following the cold night and a hard rain was forecast for later that afternoon, perfect paddling weather but not so great for pictures.  Add a little condensation inside the lens and next thing you know, the pics are all blurry.  I'm mostyly disappointed because it is a beautiful stretch of river that needs to be represented justly.  Our first view of the Van Duzen from Highway 36 was promising and combined with the rain to create a positive vibe.  We followed the river up the valley,  before turning onto Van Duzen River road.  This area has a unique variety of tree species from cedars and firs to ghost pines and oaks, and we figured there must be some sort of microclimate causing the diversity.  Looking upstream at Mad River Rock on a nice day.

I have been to the Upper Van Duzen once before, paddling a much shorter stretch between the bridges along the shuttle road and was excited to return.  We drove past the second bridge and soon the road left the river and climbed through the misty forest towards Hettenshaw Vally.  The Van Duzen is unique in that its two forks are very different from each other.  The East Fork Duzen drains Hettenshaw Valley which is surrounded by relatively low-lying hills and is essentially a plateau.  The West Fork comes down from the Lassic Mountains and is much more of a mountain stream.  Here is a view of (L to R) Red Lassic, Black Lassic and Mount Lassic

We passed through Hettenshaw valley and quickly spotted Forest Road 2S17 taking off to the right where we left pavement for the first time.  Immediately we began driving through patchy snow which was fortunately soft and wet from the moist storm.  One mile later the road dropped down towards the confluence, ending at the West Fork where we put-in.  It was a beautiful spot and the trees were covered with lichen, ideal for bigfoot sightings.  "I ain't scared of no Bigfoot"

View of the West Fork at our Put-In

Photo: Wes Schrecongost

The West Fork was running a clear blue color and we enjoyed its 150 cfs through several small rapids before arriving to the East Fork confluence.  The Boys swirling around at the confluence with the East Fork

This doubled our flow and the river continued along through a beautiful small canyon section downstream.  The gradient was steep enough to keep us busy through here as the tiny river makes many twists and turns and Paul had a big green booger hanging out of his nose all day long like a second grader.  We eventually reached our first log portage, this log is totally jammed and doesn't look to be going anywhere soon.

After the addition of several large creeks it finally started to feel like we were paddling on a river.  One more logjam required another easy portage and soon we found ourselves at the V.D. road bridge where I'd put in before.  The water levels were slightly higher on this trip and it translated into a very fun continuous style with more push.  Shortly downstream from the bridge, the first rapid left us grinning.

Here is the first rapid from my previous trip, it had substantially more water the second time around.

  

Before long the swift current had carried us to the second rapid where the river also jogs slightly left.

This one is recognizable by a steep cliff on the right bank and comes shortly downstream of the first drop.

Will Setting Safety

Due to the higher flows, this drop had a nasty pocket on the right wall that should be avoided.  There is an easy scout on the left.  Downstream, the river keeps up its pace for several miles until arriving at the lower bridge.  If all you wanted was to run the best rapids, the bridge to bridge section is best.  However,  adding miles to either end of this run makes for excellent scenery and more of a full-day affair.  When the canyon opens and the road finally returns to the river there is easy access and good camping, as you are primarily on National Forest Land from here upstream.

We reached the Upper Van Duzen Valley and paddled quickly through its braided channels and occasional willow jungles.

Although this section was in a valley it generally had good gradient and before we knew it, we were right back, full circle where our mission started one month before, the put-in for the Bloody Run.  CHECK!  one river down, five to go...

Six Rivers Source to Sea Expedition--Van Duzen River: Goat Rock

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Kayaking Goat Rock on Vimeo

Returning to the very same spot we took off the Van Duzen two weeks before was an exciting feeling.  We were stoked to have accomplished the Bloody Run and equally stoked to be getting on the Goat Rock section at a great level on a beautiful sunny day.  Flows were right about 1200 cfs on the gauge at Bridgeville as we drove through the unadulterated redwood groves that dominate the Highway 36.  Since we were along the Highway 36, perhaps the most hitchhiker-friendly road I know of, we shared a ride knowing shuttle would be no concern.  Along the way we spoke of how the long-range weather forecast was changing and beginning to show signs of storm activity.  This was equally exciting to us as our plight to paddle all Six Rivers of the National Forest seemed in jeopardy due to a lack of sufficient snowpack and water in general.  We put on at the confluence of Little Larabee Creek, where an easy trail leads to the river.  Not before we took a look at Goat Rock Falls from high above though.  Here is the overlook view of the entrance crux and the Pinch below.  

 For kayakers, even locals (with the exception of one) Goat Rock isn’t even on the map.  Mostly paddlers come to the Duzen for the classic Grizzly creek section downstream and at high water will occasionally drive up to Goat Rock Falls to stare in awe at the amazing spectacle.  At 20,000 cfs it truly is amazing to look at and there is a perfect trail leading down to an overlooking precipice from the road.  I have paddled on the section once before but circumstantially, when we arrived at the crux we hiked out up the right bank in the dusk.  That was over 10 years ago and after recent forays into the drainage and seeing the drop at reasonable levels I was really excited to get on the run again.  Goat Rock also comes highly and unconditionally recommended by the fabled local boater Silent Ed, who paddles it solo regularly.  Here Paul scouts the crux from above at river level.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Paddling downstream the river has a great pace, much better than the flat-water paddle-out from the Bloody Run.  We passed through the zany town of Bridgeville, which has a storied history as of late.  Bridgeville became widely publicized as the first town to ever be sold on E-Bay for a cost of $700,000 in 2002, only to be resold again in 2006 for $1.25 to a self-made 25-year-old millionaire.  The sale included 3 cows, 8 houses and a post office, sounds like a good deal to me.  But the story doesn’t end there; three months after purchasing Bridgeville the new owner tragically committed suicide with a gunshot wound to the chest.  I told the boys about this as we floated past town and directly underneath the highway bridge we came across the first rapid.  The Bridgeville Boof left a good taste in our mouth and we all wish shots were taken (no pun intended).

Downstream from town the Duzen lets up briefly with an extended warm-up before getting down to business Van Duzen style…a blind horizon line with large boulders blocking the view.  We scrambled briefly as I scratched for an eddy at the lip, then peeled out through a narrow slot drop into a boiling hydraulic and around the backside of a monstrous boulder.  I was all good below the drop but unable to communicate that to the crew above and had to wait for a minute before they all came charging through.  We continued downstream through more excellent class III-IV boogie before reaching the Headwall of Goat Rock proper.  

Photo: Paul Gamache

Looking downstream at the runout of the crux and the entrance to the pinch

Photo: Paul Gamache

The entrance drop into Goat Rock is the most critical move and has the biggest hydraulics due to the steep constriction along the massive river left wall.  With our healthy level the hydraulic at the bottom proved to be a stopper, but not a tractor beaming SOB.  This was good because there is only a very short break before the next drop.  In fact, the entire Goat Rock section is really only a ½ mile long rapid with 4 critical moves, and it can be easily broken up by catching large eddies.  Because of this Goat Rock is not recommended above levels of 1,500 cfs at Bridgeville.  This is also not a great run for beginning creekers at the higher end of the runnable flow range.  I would recommend starting between 800-1,000 cfs to familiarize yourself with all the moves and the hazards before pushing the level up.  Portaging the main drop is difficult and only small eddies exist above 1,000 cfs.  Goat Rock is a solid class V considering the many inconspicuous consequences.  

The second crux just downstream is the Pinch, where the river is funneled through a backed up ledge hole that feeds into a slot.  The drop is straightforward but I’d hate to be getting surfed in that hole so keep your nose up!  Looking upstream from Goldenbeard at the pinch.

Photo: Paul Gamache

 
The outflow from the pinch pushes towards river left where a hideous sieved out rock pile lurks.  The Goldenbeard Boof is on the right and where you want to be, really.  Looking downstream across the lip of the boof at the hideous rock pile in the background.

Photo: Paul Gamache

The third major move is Goldenbeard, a money boof drop where the line is hard right, almost against the bank.  As with all drops on the Van Duzen you should inspect them carefully and regularly depending on the flow levels…many unknown hazards exist and the turbid brown water can hide rocks mere inches beneath the surface.  Boof the crap out of this one!  Looking back upstream at Goat Rock and the Goldenbeard boof.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Birds eye view of Goldenbeard from the overlook.

The Runout from Goldenbeard

Photo: Paul Gamache

Goldenbeard feeds directly into a class III run out before the final drop of the section, The Deathtrap boof.  An appealing and straightforward boof line exists down the right channel, however a sneaky and extremely dangerous crack in the rock is just to the right of the line.  Inspect it carefully, but enjoy another high quality boof the Van Duzen has to offer.  

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

If you go too far right for the boof a dangerous siphon could potentially do bad things.  Boof 4 safety like Wes Shrek is doing below in the only kayaking picture we have from the day.  

Photo: Paul Gamache

It was a beautiful day and we ran this boof a couple of times for good measure.  

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Will, Paul and Me downstream of the Siphon, fired up on the quality boofs we'd paddled.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Downstream the river mellows into a class III paddle out most of the way to Golden Gate Bridge, the take-out.   Be courteous of the friendly locals here as it is their neighborhood.  As mentioned, we hitchhiked our shuttle because Highway 36 is where its at!  Friendly locals, good weather, amazing scenery and great boofs less than an hour from home…how come this was my 1^st time?