Van Duzen River -- Forks to Dinsmore

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Upper Van Duzen

This was a huge day for us involved in the Six Rivers Source to Sea Expedition, as we would be completing our final leg of the Van Duzen, and checking off the first of the six rivers on our agenda!  Our plan was to paddle the 25 miles from the confluence of the East and West Forks of the Van Duzen River near Hettenshaw valley, due north through a canyon and into the valley before passing Dinsmore and taking out at the Highway 36 bridge where our mission began.  

Photo: Wes Schrecongost

Water levels were dropping out slightly from the previous storm and it was supposed to get cold and snow so we feared things were going to be low.  Before heading out in the morning I checked the Mad River Gauge above Ruth Reservior, which was flowing at a reasonable level of 600 cfs and instantly felt great about our day's plan.  Then the crew arrived and we loaded up in a manner like we were getting used to paddling or something.  The drive to Dinsmore was also surprisingly fast and a reminder that it really is close to home.  This is a really great section of river that hardly gets paddled but with the easy access, low elevation, and fun rapids it makes for an excellent cold-wintertime option.  I owe Silent Ed full credit for turning me onto this run, here's to Local Paddlers everywhere for the reliable information they contain!

It was a foggy, damp morning following the cold night and a hard rain was forecast for later that afternoon, perfect paddling weather but not so great for pictures.  Add a little condensation inside the lens and next thing you know, the pics are all blurry.  I'm mostyly disappointed because it is a beautiful stretch of river that needs to be represented justly.  Our first view of the Van Duzen from Highway 36 was promising and combined with the rain to create a positive vibe.  We followed the river up the valley,  before turning onto Van Duzen River road.  This area has a unique variety of tree species from cedars and firs to ghost pines and oaks, and we figured there must be some sort of microclimate causing the diversity.  Looking upstream at Mad River Rock on a nice day.

I have been to the Upper Van Duzen once before, paddling a much shorter stretch between the bridges along the shuttle road and was excited to return.  We drove past the second bridge and soon the road left the river and climbed through the misty forest towards Hettenshaw Vally.  The Van Duzen is unique in that its two forks are very different from each other.  The East Fork Duzen drains Hettenshaw Valley which is surrounded by relatively low-lying hills and is essentially a plateau.  The West Fork comes down from the Lassic Mountains and is much more of a mountain stream.  Here is a view of (L to R) Red Lassic, Black Lassic and Mount Lassic

We passed through Hettenshaw valley and quickly spotted Forest Road 2S17 taking off to the right where we left pavement for the first time.  Immediately we began driving through patchy snow which was fortunately soft and wet from the moist storm.  One mile later the road dropped down towards the confluence, ending at the West Fork where we put-in.  It was a beautiful spot and the trees were covered with lichen, ideal for bigfoot sightings.  "I ain't scared of no Bigfoot"

View of the West Fork at our Put-In

Photo: Wes Schrecongost

The West Fork was running a clear blue color and we enjoyed its 150 cfs through several small rapids before arriving to the East Fork confluence.  The Boys swirling around at the confluence with the East Fork

This doubled our flow and the river continued along through a beautiful small canyon section downstream.  The gradient was steep enough to keep us busy through here as the tiny river makes many twists and turns and Paul had a big green booger hanging out of his nose all day long like a second grader.  We eventually reached our first log portage, this log is totally jammed and doesn't look to be going anywhere soon.

After the addition of several large creeks it finally started to feel like we were paddling on a river.  One more logjam required another easy portage and soon we found ourselves at the V.D. road bridge where I'd put in before.  The water levels were slightly higher on this trip and it translated into a very fun continuous style with more push.  Shortly downstream from the bridge, the first rapid left us grinning.

Here is the first rapid from my previous trip, it had substantially more water the second time around.

  

Before long the swift current had carried us to the second rapid where the river also jogs slightly left.

This one is recognizable by a steep cliff on the right bank and comes shortly downstream of the first drop.

Will Setting Safety

Due to the higher flows, this drop had a nasty pocket on the right wall that should be avoided.  There is an easy scout on the left.  Downstream, the river keeps up its pace for several miles until arriving at the lower bridge.  If all you wanted was to run the best rapids, the bridge to bridge section is best.  However,  adding miles to either end of this run makes for excellent scenery and more of a full-day affair.  When the canyon opens and the road finally returns to the river there is easy access and good camping, as you are primarily on National Forest Land from here upstream.

We reached the Upper Van Duzen Valley and paddled quickly through its braided channels and occasional willow jungles.

Although this section was in a valley it generally had good gradient and before we knew it, we were right back, full circle where our mission started one month before, the put-in for the Bloody Run.  CHECK!  one river down, five to go...

Six Rivers Source to Sea Expedition--Van Duzen River: Goat Rock

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Kayaking Goat Rock on Vimeo

Returning to the very same spot we took off the Van Duzen two weeks before was an exciting feeling.  We were stoked to have accomplished the Bloody Run and equally stoked to be getting on the Goat Rock section at a great level on a beautiful sunny day.  Flows were right about 1200 cfs on the gauge at Bridgeville as we drove through the unadulterated redwood groves that dominate the Highway 36.  Since we were along the Highway 36, perhaps the most hitchhiker-friendly road I know of, we shared a ride knowing shuttle would be no concern.  Along the way we spoke of how the long-range weather forecast was changing and beginning to show signs of storm activity.  This was equally exciting to us as our plight to paddle all Six Rivers of the National Forest seemed in jeopardy due to a lack of sufficient snowpack and water in general.  We put on at the confluence of Little Larabee Creek, where an easy trail leads to the river.  Not before we took a look at Goat Rock Falls from high above though.  Here is the overlook view of the entrance crux and the Pinch below.  

 For kayakers, even locals (with the exception of one) Goat Rock isn’t even on the map.  Mostly paddlers come to the Duzen for the classic Grizzly creek section downstream and at high water will occasionally drive up to Goat Rock Falls to stare in awe at the amazing spectacle.  At 20,000 cfs it truly is amazing to look at and there is a perfect trail leading down to an overlooking precipice from the road.  I have paddled on the section once before but circumstantially, when we arrived at the crux we hiked out up the right bank in the dusk.  That was over 10 years ago and after recent forays into the drainage and seeing the drop at reasonable levels I was really excited to get on the run again.  Goat Rock also comes highly and unconditionally recommended by the fabled local boater Silent Ed, who paddles it solo regularly.  Here Paul scouts the crux from above at river level.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Paddling downstream the river has a great pace, much better than the flat-water paddle-out from the Bloody Run.  We passed through the zany town of Bridgeville, which has a storied history as of late.  Bridgeville became widely publicized as the first town to ever be sold on E-Bay for a cost of $700,000 in 2002, only to be resold again in 2006 for $1.25 to a self-made 25-year-old millionaire.  The sale included 3 cows, 8 houses and a post office, sounds like a good deal to me.  But the story doesn’t end there; three months after purchasing Bridgeville the new owner tragically committed suicide with a gunshot wound to the chest.  I told the boys about this as we floated past town and directly underneath the highway bridge we came across the first rapid.  The Bridgeville Boof left a good taste in our mouth and we all wish shots were taken (no pun intended).

Downstream from town the Duzen lets up briefly with an extended warm-up before getting down to business Van Duzen style…a blind horizon line with large boulders blocking the view.  We scrambled briefly as I scratched for an eddy at the lip, then peeled out through a narrow slot drop into a boiling hydraulic and around the backside of a monstrous boulder.  I was all good below the drop but unable to communicate that to the crew above and had to wait for a minute before they all came charging through.  We continued downstream through more excellent class III-IV boogie before reaching the Headwall of Goat Rock proper.  

Photo: Paul Gamache

Looking downstream at the runout of the crux and the entrance to the pinch

Photo: Paul Gamache

The entrance drop into Goat Rock is the most critical move and has the biggest hydraulics due to the steep constriction along the massive river left wall.  With our healthy level the hydraulic at the bottom proved to be a stopper, but not a tractor beaming SOB.  This was good because there is only a very short break before the next drop.  In fact, the entire Goat Rock section is really only a ½ mile long rapid with 4 critical moves, and it can be easily broken up by catching large eddies.  Because of this Goat Rock is not recommended above levels of 1,500 cfs at Bridgeville.  This is also not a great run for beginning creekers at the higher end of the runnable flow range.  I would recommend starting between 800-1,000 cfs to familiarize yourself with all the moves and the hazards before pushing the level up.  Portaging the main drop is difficult and only small eddies exist above 1,000 cfs.  Goat Rock is a solid class V considering the many inconspicuous consequences.  

The second crux just downstream is the Pinch, where the river is funneled through a backed up ledge hole that feeds into a slot.  The drop is straightforward but I’d hate to be getting surfed in that hole so keep your nose up!  Looking upstream from Goldenbeard at the pinch.

Photo: Paul Gamache

 
The outflow from the pinch pushes towards river left where a hideous sieved out rock pile lurks.  The Goldenbeard Boof is on the right and where you want to be, really.  Looking downstream across the lip of the boof at the hideous rock pile in the background.

Photo: Paul Gamache

The third major move is Goldenbeard, a money boof drop where the line is hard right, almost against the bank.  As with all drops on the Van Duzen you should inspect them carefully and regularly depending on the flow levels…many unknown hazards exist and the turbid brown water can hide rocks mere inches beneath the surface.  Boof the crap out of this one!  Looking back upstream at Goat Rock and the Goldenbeard boof.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Birds eye view of Goldenbeard from the overlook.

The Runout from Goldenbeard

Photo: Paul Gamache

Goldenbeard feeds directly into a class III run out before the final drop of the section, The Deathtrap boof.  An appealing and straightforward boof line exists down the right channel, however a sneaky and extremely dangerous crack in the rock is just to the right of the line.  Inspect it carefully, but enjoy another high quality boof the Van Duzen has to offer.  

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

If you go too far right for the boof a dangerous siphon could potentially do bad things.  Boof 4 safety like Wes Shrek is doing below in the only kayaking picture we have from the day.  

Photo: Paul Gamache

It was a beautiful day and we ran this boof a couple of times for good measure.  

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Will, Paul and Me downstream of the Siphon, fired up on the quality boofs we'd paddled.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

Downstream the river mellows into a class III paddle out most of the way to Golden Gate Bridge, the take-out.   Be courteous of the friendly locals here as it is their neighborhood.  As mentioned, we hitchhiked our shuttle because Highway 36 is where its at!  Friendly locals, good weather, amazing scenery and great boofs less than an hour from home…how come this was my 1^st time?

Van Duzen River--The Bloody Run Day Two

Check it out, Explore Six Rivers Source to Sea
If you haven't read it here is the Day one description
 Here is Paul's Helmet Cam Footage of the Bloody Run

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

We slowly woke up on the second day to a cold heavy frost.  After staying in our sleeping bags to retain warmth the sunlight peeked up over the hillside and its strong rays coaxed us from our cozy confines to  get ourselves fed.  Knowing it would be another full day on the water we optimistically hoped that at some point the river character would change and open up into more runnable rapids.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

The river level had dropped only slightly overnight and after we packed our boats and pumped drinking water we were ready to go by nine o clock. 

Downstream from camp we were treated to an easy section of water with beautiful Van Duzen scenery before more congested boulder gardens reappeared and it was back to the portaging routine.

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

The river seemed to be changing for the better, as we found good lines through more rapids than the previous day.  Our runnable rapid to portage ratio began to balance out closer to 50:50 and we enjoyed some of the best rapids of the run.

This still meant dealing with many large boulder gardens that made for exhaustive portaging, not to mention we were all shagged out from the previous day’s efforts.  Get back up to the hillside...yeehaaaawww!

Now go through that poison oak bush...you know you like it!

Photo: Paul Gamache

Finally we reached an extended calm period of water and began to get our hopes up that we had passed the meat of the run. 

Photo: Wes Shrecongost

We now refer to this as the Glimmer of Hope, because shortly downstream the river slid into yet another boulder gauntlet.  Checking our GPS we realized how many more miles lay ahead and started to push harder in hopes of keeping our trip to a 2-day.  

Photo: Paul Gamache

The canyon began to open up with beautiful scenery characterized by enormous chunks of rock.  At this point we also were starting to Bonk. 

Photo: Paul Gamache

Hmmmm...big seal launch into murky brown water of unknown depth or climb around on some giant boulders with a heavy loaded kayak for the hundredth time?

Photo: Paul Gamache

Fortunately for me and Wes, the murky brown water was deep and unobstructed.

Just downstream another fun rapid pinched before pushing into an undercut that couldn't be seen from above.  Wes probes it out.

After a couple more miles of better rapids, the gradient was gradually dropping and we started covering miles without making a portage.  There were some interesting rapids thrown into the mix too.

Wes attempting to spot his line through another boulder jumble

Photo: Paul Gamache

Finally, we passed the namesake drainage, Bloody Run.  This creek comes in from river left and marked the end of the high gradient sections.  It also appears to have remarkably high water quality considering the brown nature of many other smaller side-streams.

Photo: Paul Gamache

One more tricky portage remained downstream before the Van Duzen flattens out for the remaining miles to Bridgeville.

Photo: Paul Gamache


  We passed one massive landslide in here that looked like the entire hillside was basically flowing into the river and it turned out being the final portage of our trip!  We relaxed and paddled the flatwater through beautiful scenery the rest of the way.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Eventually we arrived at the confluence with Little Larabee Creek and Highway 36.  After some celebratory high-fives, Wes made his way up to the road where the very first vehicle driving by picked him up. 

The Bloody Run is an adventure that I hope to repeat someday.  I feel like our mission opened up a run that may become a “cult classic” along with the Grand Canyon of the Mad River, just over the hills.  Several times we found ourselves portaging on the wrong side or around sections we could have committed to had we known there were lines.  With slightly higher water levels many possible routes would open up although many of our portaging options would be limited too since they were at river-level.  I know the write-up description makes it sound like all we did was portage, however looking back at Paul’s helmet cam footage we were also able to run many quality rapids as well.  Best of all, by starting out our Six Rivers Source to Sea Mission with a banging first descent, we gathered the momentum and confidence we needed to keep the ball rolling!

Major points from the trip:

If we had more time we could’ve run more rapids

The Little Van Duzen is a better put-in than Highway 36 to avoid a massive portage near Dinsmore and include another great section of river.

Information about the previous trip got twisted by each successive storyteller, to the point where it was virtually useless.

Exhausting nature of portaging/scouting- The never-ending onslaught of mind-bending boulder gardens takes a toll on your mental awareness and ability to maintain focus.  

Miles were extremely hard for us to cover.  Every time it seemed that we were going into a more runnable stretch of river we found a difficult portage or scout instead.  At one point we were making 1/2 mile an hour.

Difficult decision-making: to portage over this boulder or around that one, to portage up to a grassy hillside or stay at river level.  The river disappears into a boulder garden where 4 of the 5 slots are sieved-out and it becomes difficult communicating lines back to the crew through this complex of rapids.

Importance of bringing overnight gear: although it made our portages much more difficult and extra effort, the gear became worth its weight in gold once it became clear that we wouldn’t be making it out in a single-day. 


Importance of having a map, or GPS to locate yourself and realize how much farther you have to go.

Importance of picking a good campsite, one with flat spots and wood to burn, at the right time of day before it gets too dark to set-up camp.

Sometimes you just have to put your head down and start charging through the poison oak, otherwise it would be impossible to accomplish this river.  However I am happy to report that three weeks later I have no signs of the P.O.!  


The importance of a good crew cannot be stressed enough, we all proceeded safely and patiently which contributed to our safe return.


Going on adventures, even those which require lots of portaging, are still always worthwhile for the sense of accomplishment and change of perception they can provide.