North Coast Paddling: Klamath River--Seiad Valley to Green Riffle--Six Rivers Source to Sea

Day One (Two Really)

During the night it started to rain, and the gentle percussion continued all night long on the roof under which we were so fortunate to be sleeping. Explore Six Rivers owes a big thanks again to Tom Alexander and Four Winds Rafting in Seiad Valley as well as Alice DiMicele for putting us in contact. While hanging out with Tom and his friends Eli and J we were stoked to hear that they would come rafting along with us for a good stretch of water from Seiad down to Thompson Creek. It would be the first time the Explore Six Rivers crew would have a raft along for the mission. Also discussed was circus sideshow as a part of rafting since Eli was trained in the circus arts at Humboldt State.

Photo: Will Parham

Morning came and the shuttle arrangements were discussed. The plan was to drop our kayak/canoe crew off where we took-out the previous night at the upstream end of Seiad Valley and then meet up with the shuttle crew at the Sluice Box River Access at the downstream end of the valley. Tom graciously offered to put us up for another night thus solving our problem of having a dry place to sleep and having to repack the truck with all our crap. Wes elected to drive shuttle with the Four Winds boys who helped us all the way down to Happy Camp.

The paddle through Seiad was generally disinteresting flat water and the beautiful mountain scenery we enjoyed the day before had succumbed to grey rainclouds. It was cold and for sure snowing in the mountains all around us as the rain continued steadily. While floating through Seiad Valley we passed the confluence of Seiad Creek and Grider Creek, both of which added substantially to the rivers flow. Before long we arrived to Sluice Box where the raft was waiting.

Photo: Will Parham

Boiling eddy lines and swirling currents were making me quite nervous in the open canoe and I forced myself to do a practice roll to quell the fear. The practice roll was successful, but the fear remained. We headed downstream into the canyon separating the Marble Mountains to our south and Red Buttes Wilderness to the north. Side streams were flowing strong and seemed to be coming in everywhere. The river also picked up its pace since entering the canyon and we were enjoying some fun wavetrains.

Before long we reached Savage Rapids, and Will got out to film. I came charging into the drop straight down the gut and right towards the breaking wave. When the canoe hit the exploding wave it didn’t swamp the boat like I was expecting, instead, the hull of the canoe struck the wave and sent me launching into the air! Yee-haw! Right behind me the raft came through with Eli juggling away in the bucking raft. This was some quality entertainment and we were definitely enjoying the river as it should be enjoyed.

Photo: Will Parham

The circus sideshow continued unabated

Just downstream, another rapid called Otter’s Playpen kept the crew grinning. The river was on the rise, and moved us quickly downstream to Thompson Creek where we parted ways with our rafting/juggling friends. Downstream the Klamath enters an amazing canyon lined with metamorphic slate bedrock. The road isn’t noticeable through here although it is just above; the only intrusion comes from the gigantic boulders lining the banks. We paddled onward; enjoying the ease of the miles we were making and looking forward to eating at the Pizza House in Happy Camp.

We passed China Point, named for Chinese miners who worked here during the late 1800’s. Here the Klamath makes a gigantic horseshoe bend as it carves around the northeastern edge of the Marble Mountains and begins flowing south, instead of the westerly course we had been on since Iron Gate Dam, 70 miles upstream. There were a couple of nice surf waves however, too good to pass up.

During this section the river also flows past Fryingpan Ridge, an incredible limestone formation that we decided to stop and investigate for caves. After pulling our boats aside we went charging up the hillside to be repeatedly thwarted by thickets of poison oak and never reached the mystical cave we were searching for. Nonetheless it was a good side hike and nice to be out of the canoe and moving my legs for a bit. Getting back on the water we enjoyed the last five miles to Happy Camp where we arrived by four o’ clock, making for a short 40-mile day.

Jon spelunking

Happy Camp has a unique history, dating back beyond its present name. The town was denoted in the 1860’s by a traveler who remarked about the cheery nature of the local miners who were all doing successfully with their gold-discovering exploits. Ironically, this name replaced the previous title of Murderers Bar. I have a friend who swears he saw a ghost while staying at the Forest Lodge. When driving around Happy Camp these days one cannot help but notice that many of the locals have “No Monument” signs in their yards and in front of businesses. The signs are protesting the proposed Siskiyou National Monument, which would extend from Seiad Valley all the way past Happy Camp downstream. Supposedly the proposed monument would involve placing many restrictions upon the locals who already live in the area and as such, these signs are posted nearly everywhere. It is a contentious issue that is further complicated by the presence of Mexican Mafioso weed-farmers who invade the hills surrounding Happy Camp every summer. A friend of mine told me that recently the Siskiyou County Sheriff responsible for policing the general area was forced to retire after the mafia-growers had literally outnumbered and outgunned the lawman, who was fearing for his life and unable to effectively do his job.

Photo: Will Parham

As foretold, the crew loaded our boats and charged to the Pizza House for some highly anticipated goodness. The Pizza House is notoriously delicious as they make their own dough and they do it right. I recommend a trip to Happy Camp for the pizza alone! The ladies there didn’t even mind that we were still wearing our drysuits as we devoured perhaps my favorite food of all-time till it was gone. Then we returned to Seiad Valley where we were so blessed to have a place to stay, the cold rain had continued all day long and it was forecast to continue. Actually the rain had increased in its intensity and began to pound upon the roof while we hung our gear to dry around the heater. After paddling 90 miles over the last two days we were shagged out and with our full-bellies the crew turned in early for the night. Tomorrow we were looking forward to finishing off the trip with another 40-mile section guaranteed to be a big water extravaganza. The rain drummed on the roof all night long causing me to sleep like a rock.

Day Two: Happy Camp to Green Riffle

We woke to even harder rain that was forcing its way down from the sky. After gathering our equipment we bid our gracious hosts adieu and headed off downstream to finish the three-day paddling bender. When we reached the put-in at Indian Creek the crew stopped for a moment to appreciate the intensely high water. Logs were floating past us and the creek’s flow nearly rivaled the river into which it was flowing. I was exceedingly nervous and second-guessing my decision to bring along an open-canoe for the trip. Fortunately “I was surrounded by a crew of solid paddlers”, this I told myself repeatedly to try and find some semblance of comfort. But there was no comfort when we reached the first horizon line and I saw an exploding wavetrain that continued as far as the eye could see. Dodging breaking waves and charging past boiling eddy lines was my task for the day, that and staying away from the randomly appearing whirlpools.

Photo: Will Parham

After having good lines and making my way cleanly through several rapids my confidence was building. Dragons Tooth rapid quickly put an end to that—one look down the gauntlet of exploding hydraulics and river features put me right into check. I slid into this fascinating liquid artistry that was entirely reminiscent of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon—chocolate brown water rolled along in a chaotic fashion. Feeling a strange sympathy for all the small rodents and deer that constantly run about this planet in fear, with all due respect I needed to take a nervous pee. Negotiating that rapid was a 5 minute battle, the canoe filled with water instantaneously and I was forced to maneuver my way about with an extra 100 lbs of water in the boat. Then, after finally making it to the bottom of the rapid I was met with the equally formidable task of splitting between two monster eddy lines that were sure to do me in had I failed. After my successful line through Dragons Tooth, I was bailing the boat frantically because I saw another horizon line just downstream. There was just no downtime for the open canoeist who finds themselves on the Klamath at 25,000 cfs.

Photo: Paul Gamache

Bailing frantically

Photo: Paul Gamache

Devil’s Toenail turned out to be the next rapid and equally daunting as the previous. I found myself on the scramble once again, boat full of water and trying to avoid the eddy lines at the bottom. Looking ahead my friend Wes got completely enveloped by a spontaneously formed whirlpool and I felt the hairs on my neck rise. After 20+ years on the water, this was one of the most stressful days yet as I charged ahead hoping to avoid the same feature that gobbled my friend before me. Before long we reached the Independence Bridge and river access where our shuttle rig waited. Will traded up shuttle detail with Jon, who took one for the team and hopped in the truck.

Photo: Will Parham

Taking a break at Independence

Photo: Paul Gamache

The Open-Canoe Setup, thanks to Don Iverson for making it possible...sorry Don, I'll get that bailing bucket to you, the floatbag is in the boat though:)

Photo: Paul Gamache

In contrast to my stressful canoeing, the kayakers were playing their brains out all around me.

Photo: Paul Gamache

We were constantly passing by some of the largest river features any of us had ever seen, and the boys were proudly dropping into them. At one point, Will dropped into a house-size wave for a surf just as a whole tree floated into it. Unable to avoid the floating hazard Will surfed straight over the root ball, rail-grinding the entire tree. Paul was charging into some monster boofs that we sent him over. Jon and Wes were playing in the abundance of river features.

Photo: Paul Gamache

We had made 20 miles in a little over one hour and it had been a wild ride. More big drops were ahead for sure, though nobody had a good idea of where they might be. Ferry Point rapid, known as the high water rapid, was a guaranteed big one that we were anticipating, but when we arrived found it to be completely flushed out. What we did find, however were some of the biggest surf waves any of us had ever seen. Will, "Did you see that rail-grind!"

Photo: Paul Gamache

The largest rapid turned out to be Ti Bar rapid with some legitimate holes to be avoided. The open-canoe onslaught continued and I was tiring quickly as my friends in their kayaks comfortably floated down the wavetrains while I fought my way along the edge, bailing water any chance I could get.

Photo: Paul Gamache

None of us had ever paddled to Green Riffle before and we stopped at a couple of river access points before we actually arrived to G.R. for fear of passing the take-out and having to deal with Ishi-Pishi Falls at massive flow. When we finally arrived to green riffle, it was only 4 and ½ hours later and we had completed what many people do as a 2 or 3-day float during the summer. Mission accomplished! After 3 great days on the water we had done it and made our 120-mile goal. Unfortunately, the water was so high that we were unable to turn the truck around at the bottom of the shuttle road and had to back it all the way out the steep river access instead. On the drive home we discussed the remaining Ikes section and Upper Klamath sections that still remained for the Explore Six Rivers team, especially the possibility of kayaking Ishi Pishi Falls at high water. The section we had just paddled is one of the best big water play runs any of us had ever paddled—hands down.